Monday, April 20, 2009

How to : Make a Colonial petticoat

This is a very simple skirt constructed basically of squares pleated onto a waist band.
I use french seams on this project so that the inside is clean and neat looking.
First step. Measure from your belly button to the floor. You will probably need help with this to make sure you get it right. Now add 2" to that measurement.
You then cut two lengths of fabric however long your measurements came out to.



You should now have two big squares or rectangles depending on your height.
Open them up and lay them with right sides facing out.
Measure down 10" from the top on both of the sides. Starting there, sew your fabric down the sides at a very small seam allowance.



After sewing both sides, turn your fabric wrong side out and press the side seams.


Now sew along this fold at 5/8ths seam allowance.


This is what the inside of your seams will look like. They are now enclosed and you will not have fraying or loose threads when you wash it.



Next step is to pleat the front of the skirt to fit your waist.
Fold your skirt in half from side to side. At the top mark the middle with a safety pin.


Continue doing this and marking the center with a safety pin every time.
You should have about 8 pins in the front when you are done.



Now unfold the front of your skirt and you will have the front marked and ready to start folding the pleats. The safety pins just serve as a guide to help you make the pleats even.




Start in the center with a introverted pleat and work your way out with the other pleats faceing away from the center.


Once the pleats are to your liking baste over them carefully. Then turn under a very small amount and hem the slits that are at the sides. ( The 10" remember ? )
You then will bind the top of your pleats with bias tape. You need to leave about 12" on both ends. These will be your ties to hold the skirt on.



For the back of your skirt you can either pleat it like above you can gather it. Whichever you like best. I usually gather the back of mine.
After you gather or pleat the back sew on the bias tape lie before leaving plenty of room to tie.



The way to put the skirt on is to grab the back two strings and tie them around your waist. You then get the front two strings and tie them around your waist. This way the skirt is adjustable and the perfect fit.